Tent Buying Guide: Choosing the Right Size & Waterproof Rating

All your questions on tents: answered. Offering expert guidance on the questions you want to know. From waterproofing and sizing, after care and accessories, we have you covered. Featuring an FAQ to quickly answer your questions and full chart guides for waterproofing and tent dimensions.

Jump to:

• Tent FAQ
• Tent Waterproofing: What the Numbers Mean
  
• Tent Dimensions: What to Check Before You Buy
• What Tent Accessories Do I Need?

Tent FAQ

How waterproof should my tent be?

The waterproof rating on a tent is measured in millimetres of hydrostatic head (HH). In the UK, 1,000mm is the legal minimum to be called waterproof. Unless your trip is forecast for light rain, it won't be enough for sustained rain typical of Britain year-round.

Realistically, for British camping, a flysheet rating of between 2,000 and 3,000mm is a sensible target. For the Lake District, Scotland, Wales (notorious for downpours and variable weather conditions) or extended trips, aim for 3,000mm or higher. Your groundsheet should have a higher rating, at least 2,000mm to 3000mm more than your flysheet, as it takes the pressure of people sitting and sleeping on it. A groundsheet rating of 5,000mm or above is recommended because body weight increases water pressure.

What size tent do I need for one person?

Solo campers want to keep things compact and lightweight. Choose a one-berth for minimum weight. For more space, a two-berth is a better choice. A one-berth tent is the minimum, giving just enough room to sleep. However, those of a larger stature will likely struggle to get a comfortable night's sleep in a one berth, so it is highly recommended to size up to a two berth. 

A two-berth solo tent gives you a bit more space for your kit and is more comfortable for longer trips. For backpacking where weight is a priority, a dedicated one-person backpacking tent weighing under 2kg is the right choice. For a weekend campsite trip, a slightly heavier two-berth with a porch area will make your adventure more comfortable and enjoyable. 

What is the difference between a dome tent and a tunnel tent?

Dome tents have poles that cross over the centre, creating a rounded shape that is self-supporting and easy to pitch. They tend to be stable, quick to put up, and good for general camping or shorter trips.

Tunnel tents have poles that run parallel in a series of hoops, reducing the amount of crossing poles. This provides a more spacious interior with a better space-to-weight ratio. They need to be properly pegged out to stand up, so they are not freestanding, but they offer significantly more living space for families.

Tunnel tents are popular as family tents because of the space-to-weight ratio. If you need more space or are looking for a more comfortable experience, go for tunnel tents. If you're on a shorter trip that requires speed and convenience, the dome may be a better pick. 

What is a geodesic tent?

A geodesic tent has multiple poles that cross over each other at intersections in the structure, creating a rigid, dome-like shape. This design distributes stress evenly across the frame, making geodesic tents exceptionally stable in strong winds and heavy weather. They are the preferred choice for mountaineering, wild camping on exposed ridges, and anywhere the weather could be severe. They are heavier and more expensive than dome or tunnel tents and have less internal height due to the curved sides.

What tent materials are best for what type of camping trip?

Polyester is the most common material for family and general camping tents. Inflatable tents are also commonly made from polyester It is UV-resistant, affordable and widely available. 

Nylon is lighter and stronger, often used in technical and backpacking tents where weight is a priority. More suited to severe weather. 

Polycotton blends are breathable and feel more comfortable inside, but they are heavier, more expensive, and need to be dried carefully before storage.  For UK camping, polyester is the more practical choice of the two for most people. However, if breathability and condensation management matter to you, polycotton is worth the extra cost, especially for longer base trips where you can offset the heavier load. Glamping is a strong choice for a polycotton tent. 

Do taped seams make a difference?

Yes, taped seams make a significant difference. Stitched seams create tiny needle holes in the fabric, through which water can penetrate even if the fabric itself has a high waterproof rating.

Taped seams apply a waterproof tape over the stitching, sealing those holes. Fully taped seams across the whole tent offer the best protection. Some tents only tape the critical seams, such as those at the roof peak and the groundsheet join. For UK conditions where rain can be persistent and wind-driven, taped seams are an important feature to look for.

What is a blackout tent?

A blackout tent, sometimes called a dark rest tent, has a specially treated sleeping area that blocks most natural light. This is particularly useful in summer when early sunrises can wake you at 4 or 5 am. Coleman uses the term Blackout Bedroom and claims to block around 99% of daylight. VANGO uses the terms Lights Out and Midnight for different levels of darkness across their range. 

Blackout bedrooms are especially popular with families camping with young children, who can be difficult to settle if the sleeping area stays light. They also keep the bedroom cooler on sunny days, which is a genuine comfort benefit.

What is a bedroom tent?

A bedroom tent is a tent with a separate bedroom pod via dividers that compartmentalise sleeping and living areas. The sleeping divide often includes a zip to create private, more enclosed spaces, with the rest acting as a communal area. This style of tent allows for a member of a group to get some privacy or sleep, whilst the rest of the space can be occupied for group activity, useful for early risers and those who prefer a lie-in. Bigger, larger tents will often have two or three-bedroom compartments, making them useful for families. This set-up offers excellent practicality on longer trips.

What is the best tent for backpacking?

For backpacking, weight and pack size are the main priorities. For most, a solo backpacking tent should weigh under 2kg, and pack down small enough to fit in or attach to a rucksack. If you're aiming for ultra-lightweight backpacking, then it's feasible to target under 1kg. Two-person backpacking tents in the 1.5 to 2kg range are common for lightweight touring. Geodesic or semi-geodesic designs are more stable in exposed conditions and better suited to wild camping. Tunnel and dome shapes work well at campsites. For the UK, a waterproof rating of at least 2,000mm is important even on a lightweight tent.

What is a good tent for wild camping?

Wild camping in the UK, i.e., in Scotland, where it is legal, calls for a tent that can handle wind, rain and potentially exposed ridgelines. A geodesic tent is the most reliable for this use, with its multi-directional pole structure making it very wind stable. A freestanding design is useful when you cannot always peg into hard or rocky ground. A three-season rating is the minimum. Weight matters for wild camping since you are carrying everything in, so look for the lightest geodesic tent your budget allows.

How do I measure tent dimensions?

Tent dimensions are given as the floor area in square metres. The peak height is measured in centimetres.

The floor area determines how much sleeping space there is for a given tent. For example, for a typical two-berth tent, you might expect around 2.5 to 3 metres, whereas a family five-berth tunnel tent, by contrast, may offer 9 to 14 square metres or more, split into both living and sleeping areas.

As previously mentioned, peak height is measured in centimetres; most people will know their height in this unit, but to comfortably stand, you’ll likely need at least 190cm. Dome tents typically measure in at around 150cm, so you can sit but not stand. For a tent to feel airy, it’s recommended to go at least 200cm, usually if you’re camping in a larger group.

How do I stop condensation in a tent?

Condensation inside a tent is caused by moisture from your breath and body warmth hitting the cooler inner fabric and turning to water. It is not a sign of a leaking tent. The most effective way to reduce it is ventilation: open roof vents or slightly unzip a door to allow air to circulate. A double-skin tent with an inner tent and separate flysheet helps because the gap between them allows moisture to escape before it reaches the sleeping area. Avoiding wet clothing inside the tent and using a sleeping mat to keep your bag off the cold groundsheet also makes a difference.

Tent Waterproofing: What the Numbers Mean

Waterproof ratings cause more confusion among tent buyers than almost any other spec. The numbers feel abstract until you understand what is actually being measured. Once you do, choosing the right rating for where and how you camp becomes straightforward.

How the hydrostatic head is measured

During testing, a column of water is placed on the fabric and gradually increased in height until water begins to penetrate the other side. The height of the water column at the point of failure, measured in millimetres, is the hydrostatic head rating. A tent rated to 3,000mm HH can resist a three-metre column of water. In the real world, this translates to resistance against sustained, heavy rain, including the pressure from wind driving rain into the fabric.

Why your groundsheet needs a higher rating

When you sit, kneel, or lie on a groundsheet, the weight of your body creates significantly more pressure on the fabric than rain falling on the flysheet. This is why groundsheets need a higher hydrostatic head rating than the outer flysheet. A rating of at least 5,000mm is recommended for groundsheets. Some family tents use a polyethylene or PVC groundsheet which is entirely waterproof and does not carry an HH rating, which is fine. If your tent has a separate inner groundsheet, check the rating before buying.

Seams matter as much as ratings

The seams are the weakest point in any tent, regardless of the fabric's waterproof rating. Every stitch that holds the tent together creates a tiny hole, and those holes let water through when it is being driven into the fabric by wind. Tape applied over the stitching seals those holes. A tent with fully taped seams everywhere is the most protected. Many tents only tape the most critical points, such as the ridge seams at the top and the seam where the groundsheet meets the walls. For the Lake District or Scotland in autumn, fully taped is worth paying for. For summer campsite trips, critically taped seams do the job.

Tent Dimensions: What to Check Before You Buy

Tent listings will typically include a set of key measurements. Understanding these, what they mean, and the figures to look for helps avoid buying a tent that is poorly sized.

Floor area

Total floor area is measured in square metres, covering the entire footprint of the tent, including any porch or living area. For a comfortable sleeping area, aim for at least 1.8 square metres per person. While a five-berth family tent might have a total floor area of 12 square metres, if that then splits into a 5 square metre bedroom and a 7 square metre living area, then the sleeping space per person is tighter than the headline figure might suggest.

Peak height

Peak height tells you the tallest point inside the tent. Many dome tents peak at 130 to 160cm, which means you can sit comfortably but not stand. If you want to stand up fully in the living area of a family tent, look for a peak height of 195cm or above. Tunnel tents in the family size range typically offer 190 to 210cm of headroom in the living area, which is comfortable for most adults.

Porch and living space

The porch is the covered but unlined area between the inner bedroom and the outer door. Even a small porch makes a practical difference on a wet trip: it gives you somewhere to take muddy boots off before getting into the sleeping area and a dry spot to store wet kit overnight. For longer stays, a full living area with headroom to stand and somewhere to cook in the rain is the feature that makes the most difference to how much you enjoy the trip.

What Tent Accessories Do I Need?

A few well-chosen accessories can make a big difference in how comfortable and practical your tent is over a season of camping.

Tent footprint/groundsheet protector

A footprint is a shaped groundsheet cut to match the floor area of your tent. It sits underneath the tent and takes the abrasion from rough or stony ground. Over multiple seasons, this protects the tent's own groundsheet from wear and puncture damage. It also adds an extra waterproof layer underneath you. Most manufacturers sell footprints specific to their tent models.

Tent carpet

A tent carpet for the living area of a tunnel or family tent transforms how the space feels underfoot. It adds warmth and comfort, keeps the groundsheet in better condition, and makes the tent feel more like a home from home. Most tent carpets are made from polypropylene, which is durable, fast-drying, and easy to shake out.

Porch and canopy extensions

A porch canopy or awning gives you a covered outdoor space adjacent to the tent. On a rainy day, this makes all the difference between being able to sit outside and cook under cover or being confined inside the tent. Some canopies attach directly to the tent porch, whilst others are standalone shelters pegged near the tent.

Tent pegs

The pegs supplied with most tents are sufficient for average campsite ground. However, if you regularly camp on hard or stony ground, stronger steel or titanium pegs make a big difference. Larger surface-area pegs, such as sand pegs, are useful for soft ground, sand, or grass that has become loose and waterlogged. A small mallet and a peg puller make the whole process easier.

Tent repair kit

A basic repair kit is a must-have for a tent bag at all times. It should include: self-adhesive patches for minor flysheet tears, seam sealers for any seams that start to let water through, and a spare ferrule or splint for a pole section if one bends or breaks. Most damage to tents is minor and repairable in the field if you have the right materials, or act with sufficient speed before the damage increases.